Please note that the rider (behind the brand nu heavies) might weigh 100 lbs. All hail his leg muscles and stamina.
Davidson and I spent five minutes in the famous Cu Chi Tunnels. I think I freaked almost immediately because the tunnels were about as wide as my shoulders, and we were crouching at the waist to fit. Not sure how the Vietcong managed to live in those tunnels for years without seeing any sunlight. Still shuddering at the memory of being down there. Ugh.
I was struck by the flag frenzy and communist pride all over Vietnam. Coupled with the pure capitalist hunger I felt from North to South, I was confused about which philosophical ideal was really embraced in this country. One thing I was not confused by—war guilt. The Vietnam War is called the American War here, and the Vietnamese perspective is pretty raw. They’ve overcome a lot in a short time, and who am I to begrudge a little national pride with flags? But what’s with the hammer and sickle? Nostalgia or wishful thinking?
Our last stop for the long. long day is Khai Din’s tomb. He was the last emperor of Vietnam. I was almost too tired to see this one, but I’m glad we made the effort because I think his tomb is definitely the most beautiful. He clearly had better taste than his ancestors! But he was known to be a puppet of the French, and not too popular with the Vietnamese. Well you can’t please ‘em all.
I should mention that Hue is Vietnam’s ancient capital, which seems to mean that all the emperors in the 19th century are buried in gigantor palaces here. The good news is that all the wives and concubines did not have to kill themselves (like their counterparts did in China) to mourn the husband’s death—these lucky ladies got to tend to the grounds for the rest of their time on earth. Speaking of unfair, I’m sure I already mentioned the horrified glares I got from local men for wearing shorts in migraine-inducing, suffocating heat. Yet somehow the more scantily-clad caucasian girls were not getting the same evil stares. Maybe it’s because I look subjugatable. Yeah, the male chauvinists got to me. How embarrassing.
